Sunday, 11 January 2009

Late night in the south

It´s pushing midnight on my 8th day here.
I´m too tired to sleep so here´s a few updates.
Buenos Aires really never sleeps. You can get a bus to an open bar or club at any hour you choose. ...Or a vet if you´re in Belgrano. Because the wealthy need 24 hour pet care.
On a weekend the city is a different place too. Everything shifts and a brief stroll can find you metal bands playing parks next to art galleries and impromptu drumming and dancing on any street corner in San Telmo. The tourist infromation and quiet street side cafes become all day fiestas and floor shows and markets selling everything from the ridiculous to the wonderful and a few bits that cover both catergories.
The live music is something else here. As I mentioned there is a good chance even the most serene and tranquil of green spots can host a heavy metal gig. In one plaza we took cerveza and a quiet moment in an acoustic ska trio wandered between tables. Blues guitarists set up where they like to entertain tourists and locals and the tourist friendly tango is danced anywhere and everywhere.
The food is still wonderful. Everybody had better know how to make me tamal when I get home or I shall be turning straight back around.
The politics here is free of apathy and wonderfully vocal. Demonstrations and political graffti and flyers are everywhere, blended with the free political periodicals i wish I could read you can get from most good tubes station dwelling 20 somethings.
My next mission is to completely uncover the punk scene. There are too many goths here. Especially considering the heat. I know I was once one of them but now I knwo they are all mad.
However Galeria Bond street is my new home for sure, haven of the punk and the goth and the metal and kitsch. And hopefully when I next write here i will also be brandishing my first tattoo from there atcha. If I haven´t explained yet Barrio Norte is similar to Camden with Afflecks palace nestled in the middle. However in this affleck´s there a squillion tattoo parlours and inserters of metal into flesh also, some nationally-internationally reknowned. It´s not the only evidence of a thriving alternative scene either. On buildings from microcentro to Belgrano to La Boca slogans for and aginst oi and skins can be read on shutters and an Anarcho punk group seem to be working hard with their cans city wide. The mohawks however need more height. You heard me Buenos Aires! Work on it!
Right.
I´ve got over excited enough for one day.

For those who asked a rundown of week one
Monday-started school, went for a all you can eat veggy with a couple of lasses from oz.
Tuesday-Picnic by the harbour with same ozzies, then beers in Retiro.
Wednesday- Went touristing with a dutch guy in Microcentro, saw the casa rosada, and cabildo de buenos aires which is now more of a museum to graffiti than to independance from Spain.
Thursday- Discovered Barrio Norte and Galeria Bond street. Was very pleased. Cerveza was drank. Also got a new flatmate- Susan from Liverpool.
Friday- Hit San Telmo with Susan, saw acoustic ska and a bit of blues and tango. Discovered just how cheap drink is here.
Saturday- Got up at a decent hour (ten or eleven after seven am starts) did touristy things, then learned of the cocktails of the south, and hit Palermo. Is very nice of an evening :) Arrived home at some point. Turns out buses run 24/7 here. This is good times for money for drinking and bands.
Sunday- Lunchtime start and chinese breakfast. San Telmo for more chilled times and slightly more traditional musics. Now I am home. There was pizza but little else.

Hasta Luego everybody
And to your good elves
Syd
x

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

Mojorly jealous.
Sounds like this place needs to go on my list of places to go!
GLad you updated like this :)

xxx